Distance: 17 miles
Weather: Sunny with a light breeze (perfect)
We arrived in Edale at 10:00am and parked in the long stay car park with handy toilets. We set off and soon realised it was quite a walk to the official Pennine Way start (1/2 mile. - which doesn’t sound a lot, I know, but it all adds up on a long day in the hills). Official photos were taken outside the Nags Head and then we were off.
It was a pleasant walk through fields of sheep and we climbed steadily uphill. There were quite a few people out walking and heading in the same direction including a group of older ladies who asked me where they were on the map as they hadn’t a clue. Their plan was to walk up to Kinder Low and one of them was wearing flip flops... We went through a field with a few cows but they ignored us and we walked along the farm road to Upper Booth and admired the flower meadows on either side. Past the farm and we were on the trail proper. A short walk brought us to the wonderful packhorse bridge and the start of Jacob’s Ladder which, as always, was hard work. By now the day was heating up and we were hot and bothered by the time we reached the top but it was a good spot to have a drink and look back over the Edale valley, Mam Tor and the Great Ridge beyond.
Beyond Edale we entered the moonscape of Kinder Low. We touched the trig point and I decided to scatter mum’s ashes nearby as it was a quiet spot amongst the rock formations and the heather with superb views over Manchester, Cheshire and Wales: they were all part of mum’s life. Then onwards
to Kinder Downfall in the sunshine and light breeze. We lunched at the downfall which was dry. Mr McD left me here to head back to Edale and I toddled onwards alone to begin my solo adventures for the next day and a half.
There were a lot of people on the edge, as always, but still it is a magnificent place to be walking with amazing views down towards Hayfield and beyond. A steep descent from the plateau past my favourite clough, William’s, to Mill Hill with a sharp right turn to Featherbed Moss and Bleaklow, names which bring back memories of bog trotting, mud splattered, soggy tramps back in the 1980’s. Now this section is paved which makes the walking and navigation so much easier, although it is hard on the feet as you stride out over the old mill flagstones. The pavement is helping to restore this rich upland environment as, back in the day, the path caused a huge great scar across the moors as walkers tried to avoid the worst of the quagmire. I didn’t see a soul on my walk to the Snake Road. Featherbed Moss appeared deserted of wildlife as well. I saw one Grouse which laughed at me, as they always do, and a couple of Wheatears. The cotton grass was doing it’s beautiful thing in the light breeze and the bilberry bushes were looking verdant and ripe. I was surrounded by magnificent views with Kinder Plateau behind me, Bleaklow ahead and all around the truly awe inspiring delights of the Pennines where I always feel most at home. I felt lucky that the weather was being kind and allowing me to see the views. I had a quick break at the Snake Road, a scuttle across this fast road, a trundle over Doctor’s Gate and along Devil’s Dyke. A rocky path with stream crossing, mud and rocks. I eventually arrived at the summit of Bleaklow and yes, it is a bleak spot but quite benign on this day in the warm sunshine.
As I write this blog a year later, I have felt, so far, that the Pennine gods have been sleeping as I have tiptoed across the fells and moors, the paths and the weather have been good and I haven’t had a ‘mud up to the waist day’ yet....
I met a Scottish chap here who was walking the Way North to South and he was wearing a kilt to do it and this, of course, was his last day. After Bleaklow, the path was difficult - eroded, rocky and muddy. I eventually headed down Tor Clough which was tough going as it is a narrow path with quite a drop on the right down to the stream. I was also worried that I was going to miss my taxi pick up. Luckily I got a signal at one point and I was able to ring the taxi firm and delay the taxi for an hour and let my Air bnb landlady know I was going to be late. The scenery was beautiful but the path was bad so I was constantly watching my feet. The final two miles to civilisation were agony - both knees were protesting and I had blisters starting. I hobbled down to the road and then realised I had another mile to walk to my rendezvous point. I followed the Trans Pennine Trail which was a good flat path.
However, then I was worried that the path would not lead to the car park and I would not get there in time. I admit that there were tears... but I made it with 5 minutes to spare so all was well and the relief at having arrived in one piece after an emotional rollercoaster of a day was immense. The taxi driver drove me to my accommodation in Hadfield. it was a classic Derbyshire house - a Victorian terrace. I had a cabin bed lined with book shelves which I was too tired to investigate. I had a little step ladder to climb into bed. I met Maisie, the Scottie dog, had a bath and an excellent dinner left for me by my host and I was soon tucked up in bed and dreaming of moors, fells and Scottie dogs.
Wildlife:
1 grouse
6 wheatears
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