Distance 13.5 miles
Weather: overcast to start, rain began at 12pm and got heavier as the day progressed
I had an excellent breakfast, lovely dry & warm clothes from the drying room and a top notch packed lunch (including a Mars Bar which at this stage of the walk was a welcome pick me up)) from the marvelous Keld Lodge so I was all set for whatever the day could throw at me. Whilst breakfasting I met two lovely Scottish ladies who were walking the Coast to Coast path so it was great to chat about that fantastic walk. I was on the trail by 8:45 and it was straight uphill and over Stonesdale Moor. An old aeroplane flew over Keld as I started and I think it may have been a Hurricane - a stirring sight. As I looked back; Keld was picture perfect in the early morning sunshine.
It was a steady climb with vistas to the left and ahead of moorland and fells. It was all different from when I was last here with Mrs C when we were walking The Pennine Journey We had an incredibly wet day as we plodded over the moors and staggered into Tan Hill sodden and cold. I stopped for second breakfast and my Belgian friends caught me up. We spotted Nine Riggs on the horizon. I saw two curlews seeing off a bird of prey but there wasn't much wildlife to be seen or heard up here.
I arrived at Tan Hill at 11am and they were playing The Stranglers' No More Heroes. The fire was blazing and the service was just the same as last time I visited when I was given short shrift for asking for custard with my Sticky Toffee Pudding instead of ice-cream. I quite like the gruffness of the place. I had a mug of tea and a loo stop and I was off again. I decided to brave Sleightholme Moor as the weather had been so dry and it was, but I could see how juicy it usually was for the Pennine Wayfarer. The path was faint in places and there are navigation poles to help. It was desolate and remote although I could see the traffic on the A66 in the far distance. After 30 minutes of tramping, the rain started; light to begin with and then it gradually got heavier. I saw two black 4x4 cars driving over the moor to the hunting grounds looking quite sinister in the rainy gloom. There were grouse butts everywhere and traps set over the streams to catch weasels and stoats. Not my most favourite place to walk.
After leaving the moor I stopped for lunch and sheltered behind a wall to escape the worst of the rain. A gentleman passed me going the other way who asked me about the conditions underfoot on the moor so I was able to reassure him that it was pretty good. It was raining heavily now so I speeded up along farm tracks, past desolate looking farms with sheep and cow muck everywhere. I hadn't put my full waterproof kit on so I was quite wet and my feet were wet too. At one stage I saw a heard of heifers right on my path. I retreated to consider my options but when I looked back after 5 minutes they had crossed the river by the bridge and were munching away in a different field. The stage from Sleightholme Moor to Bowes seemed to take an age and it didn't help that I was cold and wet.
I eventually reached Bowes Castle which is a splendid ruin - a bit like myself after 5 days of walking. I looked for a shop in the village and asked two ladies who told me there wasn't one. I told them I needed a newspaper to dry out my sodden boots and one of the ladies popped into her house and gave me a couple of newspapers from her recycling pile - the kindness of strangers is wonderful.
I arrived at The Unicorn dripping wet and they didn't bat an eyelid - they must be well used to tired and emotional Wayfarers. I was soon showered, warm and dry and headed to the bar for dinner. And it was a splendid dinner with steak pie and mash. I sat with the two Swiss ladies who were great fun. The Belgians were on the next table and so we were a happy band sharing our stories and adventures of the past few days. The pub restaurant was busy but the service was good. There was a fire blazing in the grate and it was lovely to sit on the comfy sofas after dinner and chat some more. I figured out how to turn the radiator up in my room and my clothes were drying nicely and the newspapers were just the ticket for my soggy boots. I was in bed by 10pm and I had the best night's sleep so far on this trip.
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