Distance: 16 miles
Weather: drizzle then proper rain, then overcast followed by sunshine for last hour
A simple first breakfast of muesili and juice and I was soon walking down to the trusty Co-op supermarket for provisions and a rendevous with my New Zealand friend, Mrs C, who was joining me for the day. We were on the trail by 9:30 and heading up a quiet lane to join a path which would take us back to the Pennine Way. We met a couple of chaps who gave us advice about the route - one of them was a mountain rescue volunteer. We were now following an old pack horse route so it was easy walking. The weather closed in and out came the waterproofs but still fantastic views back down the valley to Marsden and over the beautiful Marsden Moor. We met the same two chaps again and they took great delight in telling us about someone being blown off the M62 footbridge and another poor soul who was bitten by an adder and died up on the moors.
We rejoined the Way at a road and slipped over the border into Lancashire and onto the Saddleworth Moors for a while. This was typical, bleak moorland with rushes, cotton grass and bog and super views all around us. Ahead we could see the A672 and, joy of joys, the tea van was there. We made a b-line for it with a spring in our step. The noise of the M62 could now be heard and then we could see it - a roaring, scary monster of lorries and cars travelling too fast on their urgent errands to Leeds and Liverpool. We arrived at the tea van and had tea and second breakfast. We chatted to Colin, the owner, he loves his life in this lonely spot with no stresses and a beautiful view every day although sometimes the wind is so strong it feels like the van will take off across the moors. We continued on and arrived at the M62 bridge: a lifetime's ambition realised for me. The traffic roar was tremendous and we had to shout to hear each other whilst sheep calmly grazed nearby without a second glance at the traffic. It is a beautiful bridge and built especially for the Pennine Wayfarers.
We were soon over and heading to Blackstone Edge via a super little shelter and seating area where we had lunch. The wind was stronger here and we were buffeted as we walked along the edge navigating round large boulders and following poles and cairns. Next was the Aiggin Stone, which is a medieval boundary marker, and then we were striding along the Roman Road which was fab as I imagined being a centurion leading my troops through the wild uplands. The White House Pub provided a welcome break with toilets, escape from the wind and lashings of ginger beer. We met a woman in the middle of her 700k sponsored walk. She was raising money to help rehabilitate service men with PTSD. This superwoman was walking 50k a day (34 miles)! We left the pub before her but she soon passed us with a cheery wave and disappeared over the horizon.
The next section wasn't much fun - windswept grey reservoirs and a tedious diversion due to engineering works which added 1 mile to the day's total. It was a desolate, boring spot. Ahead, we could see the Stoodley Monument not getting any closer. Then the sun came out and illuminated our walk over slabs to the base of the monument. We left the Way and headed downhill via a nicely paved path to Todmorden. It took ages with our tired knees and seemed a lot further than the 1 1/2 miles advertised. The path deposited us at the wrong end of town so we had a long walk to Mrs Cs hotel and even longer to my Air bnb. My sister and her partner were waiting for us and we had drinks and dinner together so it was a lovely end to a long day on the Way. I slept well that night.
No comments:
Post a Comment