Distance: 16 miles
Weather: Bright, slight breeze, warm
I had a super breakfast sat at the communal breakfast table with two young men who were enjoying there first long distance trail (Edale to Horton in 4 days - crazy young people). They asked me about other trails they could do and my recommendations for accommodation. After poached eggs and lashings of tea I was on the path by 9:30am and today I was walking solo, I walked by the reservoir, along the dam wall and over the road and then straight up the hill via a cluster of farm buildings. Someone had left their tea mug on a fence post. I also went past Ponden Hll which is thought to be the inspiration for Thrushcross Grange in 'Wuthering Heights'.
I walked past some lovely woodlands full of foxgloves and bird song. I soon left the farmland behind and entered the moors and headed for Old Bess Hill where I met a young man, a fellow Pennine Wayer, who was mainly wild camping along the route.We chatted for a while in the warm sunshine and we were to meet up again on and off until Lothersdale. The moor here was beautiful. It is called The Sea and Wainwright called it a 'barren wasteland'. With the sun shining it looked grand to me. There were slabs every so often and also boggy bits to negotiate in the old school way of bog hopping. Next was Ickornshaw Moor where I heard and saw at least 6 curlews - my favourite moorland bird. Ahead I was aiming for a stone hut which was a useful navigation point.
And then I could see Pen-y-gent ahead and it was looking magnificent and without a cloud over it for a change. The weather was clear, warm and sunny with a light breeze so it was perfect walking weather. Soon I was heading downhill past a series of huts. These belong to the grouse gamekeepers. I followed a steep path past a lovely waterfall and through a field of cows and down into the village of Ickornshaw. I met up with the young man again and we chatted. He lives in China and teaches Economics and this was his first long distance trail.
So now I was heading steeply uphill again through farmland, past a derelict farm called High Stubbing and trough more fields and then into Lothersdale for lunch at the Hare & Hounds Pub. A ham sandwich and ginger beer soon had me ready for the path. Time was marching on and I still had 8 miles to walk so I said goodbye to Craig for the last time and toddled back to the trail. Again, it was another steep ascent out of a valley and through fields including a field full of cows which I bravely negotiated my way round. Elstack Moor was my next Pennine Moor and at the trig point there were marvellous views all around including Pen-y-gent which was still dead ahead of me. I descended from the moor down a lane and passed a weary cyclist slogging his way up. By now, I was also knackered and I was heading for Thornton in Craven which was still a mile away and Gargrave which was another 4 1/2 miles after that.
I didn't stop in Thornton, I motored through and arrived at the Leeds and Liverpool canal which at least meant some walking on the flat for a while. I followed the towpath to East Marton and its crazy bridge. Here I should have left the canal and followed the Way. I made a mistake, I thought it would be easier and shorter to follow the canal path and if things got desperate, I could thumb a lift on a canal boat...hah! It was much longer. I didn't have the OS map for this section and if I had I would have seen that the canal twists and turns round the contours. I was walking for ages. It was all very pretty and peaceful but I was tired and everything was hurting - blisters, ankles, my right leg seized up and my left bum cheek was aching!? I did see some oyster catchers though...
Eventually I reached what I thought was the outskirts of Gargrave. A man was chopping firewood by his boat and said, "not to worry, I'm not a mad axe man..". I asked him how far it was to the centre of Gargrave and said about a 20 minute walk. I trudged on and I was so weary and sore. I passed the flight of locks and still no sign of the town. The towpath disappeared and I was walking along a minor road. A car passed me and I thought I am going to have to thumb a lift soon to get me there. The next car stopped and it was the mad axe man! He had taken pity on me and he drove me the rest of the way into town. His name was Max and he was my hero that day. I found my Air bnb which was a beautiful place. I had cup of tea and a shower and felt better but.my poor feet and legs were agony. A takeaway curry for tea and I was in bed before you could say 'mad axe man'.
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