Distance: 16.5 miles
Weather: Overcast for most of the day and warm with a cooling breeze, sun came out at late afternoon
I had a good night's sleep but I was awake at 6:00am and on the trail by 7:15am. It was a lovely walk retracing my steps from the final day last year. I walked through Hanliff again and then by the river into Malham. There were an awful lot of cows...everywhere. I had to overcome my fear as there was no way round but, to be honest, they were all totally chilled and not bothered by a perspiring walker passing by.
Everywhere was quiet as it was so early; Malham Cove was practically deserted. It was a stiff old climb up the steps. I remembered the route from the Dales High Way so I knew the direction to take across the pavement and I was soon heading up Watlowes dry limestone valley. At the top I turned right this time to follow the Way. It was a good, springy green path which was rocky in places. I took a wrong turn at one point but realised after 5 minutes and retraced my steps. I was soon heading for Malham Tarn which was grand. The field studies centre was full of people studying fields and such like. I met a chap who was doing a moth survey and he was concerned about what I was doing for lunch so reassured him that I had supplies. Joy of joys - there was a toilet by the path at the back of the building so I took advantage of it and then gave a donation to the collection box as I was one relieved Pennine Wayfarer. I had a lovely walk through the grounds with fine trees, ferns, mosses, wildflowers and there was a convenient bench where I could admire the tarn and have a snack.
Now it was time to start the ascent of Fountains Fell. It was looming up ahead. I had a long walk over heather and peat moorland with lots of evidence of mining activities. There were fantastic views of my next challenge. I reached the summit which wasn't that exciting and started on the long, steep, rocky path down to Dale Head with knees that were beginning to protest. A right turn at Dale Head and I was heading straight for Pen-y-gent which had been looming ever since I crested Fountains Fell. I was not as nervous as I thought I was going to be - it was just something I had to overcome and needed to do. It is an upward plod until you get right underneath the looming monster. Then the steps start and then the scrambling. At one point I thought I was going to get stuck but I held my nerve and got through. A whole load of young soldiers appeared and were careering down as I was struggling up. I stopped to let them pass and I watched them hurtling down with their bergens and all swearing like...troopers. They were on a two day exercise and covering 60k. I reached the top after some more scrambling (there was some knee action) and I reached the trig point and I was elated. I felt proud to have done it as I am someone who wobbles on the second rung of a step ladder...
I was lucky as the peak wasn't covered in cloud as it usually is and the views were splendid back to Fountains Fell and ahead towards Ingleborough. The long slog down was hard and it took ages. It is a steep rocky path for most of the way and so my progress was slow. The sun came out which was great and I arrived in Horton at 5pm. I found my B&B, had a shower, applied the linament to my poor knees and headed to The Crown for my tea. Two big hills ticked off and early to bed that night to dream of more hills and fells and moors and heather....
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