Gargrave to Malham

Monday 17th July 2017
Distance:  7 miles
Weather:  Warm and sunny with a light breeze (perfect)

I had the best night's sleep of the walk in a super comfy bed.  The shower was excellent, my room was beautifully decorated with nice little touches such as hooks, tissues and a lavender bag.  Breakfast involved home made vegetarian sausages which I was a bit wary of but actually were very tasty.  I shopped for plasters in the handy chemist and bought lunch from the Co-op and then I was on my way;  I was taking my time today as it is a short day and my legs and feet were still weary.  It was a beautiful day.  I crossed the canal bridge as a boat prepared to go through the locks and then I followed a pleasant tree-lined lane.  At this point, the official path continued through fields on the right but I decided to find an alternative route.  I continued down the lane which was delightfully pretty and shaded with wildflowers in the verges, cattle lowing in the fields and birds twittering all over the show.

I considered rejoining the trail half a mile further on which I could see beyond the pesky cow field.  I approached the gate and saw that it was just leaning against the post and completely unhinged.  I couldn't lift it so I stayed on the lane which had tuned into a rocky green track.  There were rolling fields all around, the sun was shining - what more do you need?  The lane brought me to Bell Busk where the railway passed by on a viaduct and I crossed the River Aire on an old stone bridge.  The river looks much prettier here than it does in Leeds.  It was time for a snack so I perched on a bank by the bridge and the 'Welcome to the Yorkshire Dales National Park' sign and I enjoyed a slice a cake.  A few cars passed but not enough to spoil the peace.  I followed a minor B road towards Airton  past fields of sheep and cows with the River Aire coming and going.  Scot pine trees shaded the road in places.  I considered rejoining the way at Newfield Bridge but I could see cows as far as the eye could see so I stuck with the road for another half mile and eventually arrived at Airton.

Airton was delight with stone cottages surrounding a village green,  The cottages had wisteria and roses climbing up the walls.  Lunch was eaten on the green sat under a shady tree.  It was peaceful apart from the arrival of the dustbin men in the corporation lorry and the steady trickle of shiny 4x4 cars pulling up for a few minutes with the engines running and then driving off again.  I had seen a sign for a tea room so I went to investigate.  I spotted a lady gardening and asked her where the tea rooms were and she told me that it was closed on Mondays so I was saved a disappointing diversion.

I returned to the green and spotted the Quaker meeting house.  I had never visited one before and it was a joy.  An air of peaceful restfulness pervades the building which has been here since 1651.  A simple stone built room with wooden pews and settles were covered with sheep fleeces and cushions and which were warm and comfortable to sit upon.  I sat there for quite a while and let the silence envelop me and it felt good.  A section of the room was partitioned off with old wood panelling.  There were more settles and a fire place to warm the Quakers.  Outside was a lovely little garden and a cemetery - all the headstones were the same design and size.  'All will be well' was carved on a garden bench and I felt comforted and loved. 

I decided to rejoin the way for the final stage of my walk to Malham and I am so glad I did.  It was idyllic walking along the river bank.  I was brave an walked through a cow field who were totally chilled and didn't even look up as I passed by quietly.  I saw sand martins for the first time as they flew in and out of their nests,  There were plenty of herons around as well.  I walked towards Hanlith Hall through the parkland and riverside meadows whilst a group of fine horses grazed in the dappled sunshine under the trees.  Through the hamlet of Hanlith,  past the hall and past Badger House with its badger weather vane and St Francis plaque and then through more fields and soon I arrived in Malham and journey's end for this trip.  

I had a celebratory pint at the Buck Inn and then I toddled off to find my hotel for the night - Beck Hall.  After dinner, I enjoyed a glass of red wine sat by the log fire in the wood panelled  hotel snug with soft cushions and blankets to snuggle down in.  A luxurious end to an excellent week's walking.

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