Sunday 22nd July 2019
Distance: 11 miles
Weather: hot and sunny
I woke up to brilliant sunshine and I had breakfast and was on the trail by 8:45. It was quiet in the village; it was Sunday morning after all. I walked over the bridge and had a hairy walk to the start of the Tess Railway Path along a busy road with no pavement. Today I was heading for Barnard Castle, where I was staying over night, before catching the bus to Darlington and then a train home back to Leicestershire.
As I reached the footpath for the Railway trail, it coincided with the arrival of the Duke of Edinburgh teenagers I briefly met yesterday so I hung around for 10 minutes to give them a head start with their grumpy ways (apparently, they dropped a lot of litter yesterday which the Belgians picked up and gave to their leaders...).
Well, it was a beautiful walk today. The railway had been a single track on the side of the valley so there were excellent views and there were lots of handy benches to sit a spell and admire the vistas which was nice. The trail was awash with wildflowers: wild raspberries, meadowsweet, harebells, geraniums, burdock, scabious, birdsfoot trefoil and St John's Wort. There were also lots of animals including beautiful horse and ponies, chickens and lots of sheep. I met three rams and they were very tame and let me give them a pat as I passed by. I passed Mickleton and then Romaldskirk where the railway passes through private land so I walked through the village. In the village was the most picturesque pub called 'The Rose and Crown. I decided to visit and it was just as perfect inside with brasses, dark wood, comfy settles and cosy public rooms. I had a pot of tea and homemade biscuits whilst I gently perspired; the day was becoming hot. When I got up to leave, i noticed I had left a puddle as my water bottle had leaked...I made a sharp exit.
Back on the trail and I was heading for Cotherstone. I had lunch there sat on the village green under a shady silver birch tree. It was peaceful until a lawn mower started up. I put my boots back on and went in search of the path down to the river and another trail called the Teesdale Way. It started as a quiet lane with just me and the hundreds of sheep panting in the heat. Then there was the River Tees where I turned right and followed the path towards Barnard Castle through fields and shady woods. I spotted an array of purple orchids which were gorgeous. It was easy walking but v hot. Just before I reached Barnard Castle, I spotted some substantial stonework through the trees which was the Deepdale Viaduct and once carried the trains travelling from Middleton over the River Tees. Such a shame the viaduct is now unsafe to walk across. as it would make a great entrance into the town.
I soon arrived in the busy metropolis and walked past the dramatic ruined castle which towers over the river. I felt quite superior arriving on foot as all the cars queued at the traffic lights. It was a stiff climb past the castle and up to the town centre and I soon spotted my hotel. I booked in, had a shower and went for dinner to a super Italian restaurant where I ate starters, a whole pizza and dessert - a great meal to celebrate the end of this year's peregrinations.
Saturday 21st July 2018
Distance: 13 miles
Weather: Overcast and warm all day, sun put on a show at 5pm
Today was my final day on the Way for this trip so I was going to make the most of it. I was on the path by 9:00 with my packed lunch safely stowed. I walked through Bowes looking at the interesting buildings and I think I located Charles Dicken's inspiration for Dumbledoys School in Nicholas Nickleby. Dickens stayed at the Ancient Unicorn when he visited Bowes. I soon crossed the A66 and started heading back up on to my lovely moors. I walked past Clint House where I stayed on The Pennine Journey which brought back happy memories of pots of strong tea and plates of delicious home made cakes.
It was all a bit nondesecript for a while after that as I toddled past the Ministry of Defence land, which was looking dismal under the overcast skies. I started to remember how wet it was on my last visit here - the becks and gills were all in full spate and we had to leap and bound across them. The ground was wobbly as a wet water bed. It was squishy and muddy and there was lots of bog trotting. By the end of that day we walked into Middleton covered in mud up to our waists - we were knackered but happy and The Teesdale Hotel obligingly put our sodden boots in their boiler room to dry out for the next day. This time it was dry as a bone. There was a trickle of water in Hazel Gill but not much. I had put on my gaiters ready for the worst but I didn't really need them. These are strange times and the moors were illustrating this vividly on this walk.
Crossing the moors I kept meeting up with the Swiss ladies but no sign of the Belgians today. I was soon at Balderhead and Blackton reservoir. It was a lovely spot with lots of wildlife. And then there was Hannah's Meadow which was just as beautiful as last time I saw it with lots of sweet smelling Meadowsweet. It was then a yomp (me yomping - who'd have thought it) across more moorland and again, last visit it was so muddy and wet and this time it was practically a stroll in the park...apart from the hills of course.
I walked through Lunedale between two reservoirs and then steeply uphill to Grassholme Farm, and a right turn past Withy Farm where they had a tuck shop which was brilliant. They had drinks, homemade cake, crisps and chocolate bars but I couldn't buy anything as I didn't have less than a tenner with me - doh! Onwards and upwards through fields with cows, past old quarry workings. I crested the hill and there was Middleton in Teesdale nestling in the valley and it is, in my opinion, one of the best of the North Pennine villages. I could see where the Way continued up Teesdale and I wished I could continue tomorrow instead of having to wait for a year. I did the classic 'Last of the Mohican's' wave before I started my descent into Middleton It was a special moment as I shouted my goodbyes to the Way until next year.
It was a steady descent down into Middleton past Kirkcarrion which always looks interesting but foreboding. I had tea and a scone at the 1618 cafe. All the wonderful shops were still lining the high street; the chemist, butchers, ironmongers, the Co-op - I love this village. I found my Air bnb which was the top floor of a converted mill and it was a gem. My host was away so I had the place to myself. She left me detailed notes about the hot water, heating and food and it was so comfortable and welcoming with books everywhere.
I had dinner at the Teesdale Hotel and was delighted that my Belgian friends joined me for my last evening. I persuaded them to order Sticky Toffee Pudding and they liked it. I also gave them some top tips for the next stage of the walk as I had walked some of the same paths on the Pennine Journey: to try fish and chips in Alston but wash it down with Dandelion and Burdock, to walk along the South Tyne Railway rather than the official trail after Alston, to visit Vindolanda if they get the chance. We said our good byes. They were a lovely couple, gentle souls, and I shall miss seeing them.
Friday 20th July 2018
Distance 13.5 miles
Weather: overcast to start, rain began at 12pm and got heavier as the day progressed
I had an excellent breakfast, lovely dry & warm clothes from the drying room and a top notch packed lunch (including a Mars Bar which at this stage of the walk was a welcome pick me up)) from the marvelous Keld Lodge so I was all set for whatever the day could throw at me. Whilst breakfasting I met two lovely Scottish ladies who were walking the Coast to Coast path so it was great to chat about that fantastic walk. I was on the trail by 8:45 and it was straight uphill and over Stonesdale Moor. An old aeroplane flew over Keld as I started and I think it may have been a Hurricane - a stirring sight. As I looked back; Keld was picture perfect in the early morning sunshine.
It was a steady climb with vistas to the left and ahead of moorland and fells. It was all different from when I was last here with Mrs C when we were walking The Pennine Journey We had an incredibly wet day as we plodded over the moors and staggered into Tan Hill sodden and cold. I stopped for second breakfast and my Belgian friends caught me up. We spotted Nine Riggs on the horizon. I saw two curlews seeing off a bird of prey but there wasn't much wildlife to be seen or heard up here.
I arrived at Tan Hill at 11am and they were playing The Stranglers' No More Heroes. The fire was blazing and the service was just the same as last time I visited when I was given short shrift for asking for custard with my Sticky Toffee Pudding instead of ice-cream. I quite like the gruffness of the place. I had a mug of tea and a loo stop and I was off again. I decided to brave Sleightholme Moor as the weather had been so dry and it was, but I could see how juicy it usually was for the Pennine Wayfarer. The path was faint in places and there are navigation poles to help. It was desolate and remote although I could see the traffic on the A66 in the far distance. After 30 minutes of tramping, the rain started; light to begin with and then it gradually got heavier. I saw two black 4x4 cars driving over the moor to the hunting grounds looking quite sinister in the rainy gloom. There were grouse butts everywhere and traps set over the streams to catch weasels and stoats. Not my most favourite place to walk.
After leaving the moor I stopped for lunch and sheltered behind a wall to escape the worst of the rain. A gentleman passed me going the other way who asked me about the conditions underfoot on the moor so I was able to reassure him that it was pretty good. It was raining heavily now so I speeded up along farm tracks, past desolate looking farms with sheep and cow muck everywhere. I hadn't put my full waterproof kit on so I was quite wet and my feet were wet too. At one stage I saw a heard of heifers right on my path. I retreated to consider my options but when I looked back after 5 minutes they had crossed the river by the bridge and were munching away in a different field. The stage from Sleightholme Moor to Bowes seemed to take an age and it didn't help that I was cold and wet.
I eventually reached Bowes Castle which is a splendid ruin - a bit like myself after 5 days of walking. I looked for a shop in the village and asked two ladies who told me there wasn't one. I told them I needed a newspaper to dry out my sodden boots and one of the ladies popped into her house and gave me a couple of newspapers from her recycling pile - the kindness of strangers is wonderful.
I arrived at The Unicorn dripping wet and they didn't bat an eyelid - they must be well used to tired and emotional Wayfarers. I was soon showered, warm and dry and headed to the bar for dinner. And it was a splendid dinner with steak pie and mash. I sat with the two Swiss ladies who were great fun. The Belgians were on the next table and so we were a happy band sharing our stories and adventures of the past few days. The pub restaurant was busy but the service was good. There was a fire blazing in the grate and it was lovely to sit on the comfy sofas after dinner and chat some more. I figured out how to turn the radiator up in my room and my clothes were drying nicely and the newspapers were just the ticket for my soggy boots. I was in bed by 10pm and I had the best night's sleep so far on this trip.
Thursday 19th July 2019
Distance: 12.5 miles
Weather, sunny intervals, warm breeze
I posted my postcards and bought lunch and supplies from the Spar which was an excellent store with a great selection of bread, pastries, pies and savouries of which I bought a goodly amount. It looked like it was going to be a balmy summer's day. It was a mile to Hardraw across fields with stone causeway paths crossing the River Ure (which was low). Hardraw was a pretty Yorkshire village with stone cottages, flower filled gardens, a bridge over the river and an old church. I spotted a dipper as I paused on the bridge. I wasn't sure if I was going to visit the waterfall behind the Green Dragon pub and my mind was made up when I arrived at the ticket office to find it closed and not opened until 10:00am.
As I walked through the village, swifts were swooping and diving low just above me as they fed their young in their nests under the eaves of the old school building. It was a magic moment as I usually only see them way up in the sky and today they were almost within touching distance and in large numbers.
I left the village via a stony walled path and so began my ascent of Great Shunner Fell. It was a long steady climb with superb views in all directions. Gert and Sonia, the Belgians, were behind me and then overtook me as I stopped for a break. Another couple motored on by fully laden with heavy backpacks. I eventually reached the summit and the views were amazing. In fact, I could just make out the Lakeland Fells in the far distance to the west. The Belgians and the other couple, who were German, all arrived with me and we celebrated reaching the summit with a selfie. We all knew how lucky we were to have good weather and to be able to see the view on top of this fell which is usually wet and misty. The young German couple had recently emigrated and were living in Preston. They wanted to explore England and they thought walking the Pennine Way was the way to do it. We all parted at the summit and made our individual journeys down the fell to Thwaite.
After a long, steep descent I reached Thwaite and headed straight for the tea room where I found my European friends all enjoying scones and tea. I soon joined them.
Now it was just 3 three miles to Keld and I thought it would be easy. First I took a wrong turn out of the village and found myself on the path to Muker so I retraced my steps and found the correct path. The paths out of the village were beautiful as they passed through meadows full of wild flowers and butterflies. The correct path went steeply uphill (Kidson Hill) with lots of rabbit warrens and dead rabbits. The path was narrow and rocky and it was very hot as the afternoon wore on. At a farm, I turned up a walled farm track to be confronted by 4 cows. I was hot and weary so I just said, "excuse me ladies" and walked between their swishing tails and followed the track without a backward glance.
The next stage to Keld took me a long time. I stopped a lot to sit in the shade, have a drink, a snack and admire the views of Swaledale which were amazing. I could see Crackpot Hall which was the old Lead Mining complex which I remember from the C2C walk. The path was difficult - rocky, steep, narrow with tree branches and bracken in the way. I eventually arrived in Keld and found Keld Lodge which was my accommodation for the night. I was soon showered and changed and enjoying a ginger beer (with lots of ice) in the lounge.
Wednesday 18th July 2018
Distance: 14.5miles
Weather: warm, gentle breeze and some sunshine
I had breakfast at 8:00am and met the other guests who were two Swiss ladies walking part of the Pennine Way from Horton to Greenhead. I was on the trail at 8:50 with my packed lunch prepared by the landlady of the Crown. I picked up the trail behind the pub and walked along a walled lane which was rocky underfoot. Most of the day will be spent on either pack horse routes and/or Roman Roads so I will be walking through history with the jaggers and the centurions. It was a steady climb with great views opening up all around me. Pen-y-gent was looking magnificent without its cloud shroud. Also Whernside and Ingleborough were coming into view.
The first highlight today was Ling Gill which was a beautiful gorge with the river running through it with overhanging rocks, wildflowers and trees and its bridge was also very photogenic. I could see the path snaking up ahead of me towards Cam Fell; it was a steady climb and hot. The Pennine Way joined the Dales Way for a while and they have made the trail into a hard track so the logging lorries can get to and from the forestry land - not pretty.
The Pennine Way left the Dales Way behind and now I was on the Cam High Road which is a Roman road which was then used as a pack horse route. The views of the Ribblehead Viaduct, Pen-y-gent, Ingleborough and Whernside were stunning. Not a cloud on any of them and every so often a little train would trundle over the viaduct. The track continued and with Snaizeholme Fell on the left which was grand. I stopped for lunch and admired the view. Later, at my next break, I met two people I saw briefly yesterday on my descent from Pen-y-gent. They were a Belgian couple walking the whole Way. We walked together for a while and chatted - they were lovely. I was to meet up with them everyday for the rest of my walk.
I followed what was now a grassy track down into Gayle and then Hawes. Hawes is postcard pretty with lots of useful shops. I was looking forward to my tea - fish, chips and mushy peas washed down with Dandelion and Burdock
Tuesday 17th July 2019
Distance: 16.5 miles
Weather: Overcast for most of the day and warm with a cooling breeze, sun came out at late afternoon
I had a good night's sleep but I was awake at 6:00am and on the trail by 7:15am. It was a lovely walk retracing my steps from the final day last year. I walked through Hanliff again and then by the river into Malham. There were an awful lot of cows...everywhere. I had to overcome my fear as there was no way round but, to be honest, they were all totally chilled and not bothered by a perspiring walker passing by.
Everywhere was quiet as it was so early; Malham Cove was practically deserted. It was a stiff old climb up the steps. I remembered the route from the Dales High Way so I knew the direction to take across the pavement and I was soon heading up Watlowes dry limestone valley. At the top I turned right this time to follow the Way. It was a good, springy green path which was rocky in places. I took a wrong turn at one point but realised after 5 minutes and retraced my steps. I was soon heading for Malham Tarn which was grand. The field studies centre was full of people studying fields and such like. I met a chap who was doing a moth survey and he was concerned about what I was doing for lunch so reassured him that I had supplies. Joy of joys - there was a toilet by the path at the back of the building so I took advantage of it and then gave a donation to the collection box as I was one relieved Pennine Wayfarer. I had a lovely walk through the grounds with fine trees, ferns, mosses, wildflowers and there was a convenient bench where I could admire the tarn and have a snack.
Now it was time to start the ascent of Fountains Fell. It was looming up ahead. I had a long walk over heather and peat moorland with lots of evidence of mining activities. There were fantastic views of my next challenge. I reached the summit which wasn't that exciting and started on the long, steep, rocky path down to Dale Head with knees that were beginning to protest. A right turn at Dale Head and I was heading straight for Pen-y-gent which had been looming ever since I crested Fountains Fell. I was not as nervous as I thought I was going to be - it was just something I had to overcome and needed to do. It is an upward plod until you get right underneath the looming monster. Then the steps start and then the scrambling. At one point I thought I was going to get stuck but I held my nerve and got through. A whole load of young soldiers appeared and were careering down as I was struggling up. I stopped to let them pass and I watched them hurtling down with their bergens and all swearing like...troopers. They were on a two day exercise and covering 60k. I reached the top after some more scrambling (there was some knee action) and I reached the trig point and I was elated. I felt proud to have done it as I am someone who wobbles on the second rung of a step ladder...
I was lucky as the peak wasn't covered in cloud as it usually is and the views were splendid back to Fountains Fell and ahead towards Ingleborough. The long slog down was hard and it took ages. It is a steep rocky path for most of the way and so my progress was slow. The sun came out which was great and I arrived in Horton at 5pm. I found my B&B, had a shower, applied the linament to my poor knees and headed to The Crown for my tea. Two big hills ticked off and early to bed that night to dream of more hills and fells and moors and heather....
Monday 16th July 2018
Distance: 6.5 miles
Weather: warm, some sunshine and heavy rain overnight
I had a rendevous on the train with my friend Mel and her dog, Holly. They were joining me for my first day as I walked from Settle to Malham and this marked the beginning of the second year of my Pennine Way journey. We arrived in Settle which was in the middle of its annual Flowerpot festival so everywhere you looked flowerpot men were sat in gardens, leaning out of windows and decorating the shops. After tea and cake at the Naked Man cafe we were off.
Settle to Malham is a route I have followed twice before when walking The Dales HighWay , although in the opposite direction. There is a steep climb out of town and up onto the Limestone dales and cliffs of Attimire Scar. It was hot and we both struggled up the hill whilst the dog took it all in her stride. My pack felt heavy and my legs were weak due to a lack of training before I set off this time. The views were worth the pain and the sweat - I always love the Dales vistas. The forecast had said there would be rain but it failed to materialise. We didn't see another soul until we reached Malham which was rather splendid. It was bone dry underfoot and we walked without the sound of gushing springs and streams. The weather had been unusually dry that summer. The last time I walked this route I arrived in Settle soaked and left puddles in the Co-op as I bought my provisions.
We walked past the crags and joined the Pennine Bridleway which was a rocky, undulating track. It was still warm but we had good views in all directions. Then Malham Tarn came into view in the distance and it was magnificent - I will be walking there tomorrow. We arrived in Malham and had dinner at the Lister Arms which was tasty. They like dogs there so Holly was able to sit under the table and catch any crumbs. Mel and her husband kindly gave me a lift to my Air bnb which was in Kirkby Malham. It was a beautiful stone cottage and I had the place to myself as the family were away. In the garden, chickens were patrolling. The rain started as I arrived but warm summer breezes were promised for tomorrow.
